Fat Saturday
Article By: Vice Chargée de Presse Ilona Weisman
Photos By: Bailli William Harris and Vice Chargée de Médias Sociaux Christina Richards
Albany, NY
If it’s Pancake Day, Shrove Tuesday or Fat Tuesday, then it’s a Tuesday, right? Call the last day of Carnival whatever you like, the Albany Chaîne celebrated Mardi Gras the Saturday before. The bailliage converged on 677 Prime in Albany, New York to party with a Dixieland trio, a New Orleans-inspired menu, and garb fit for the Bacchus parade. In festive dress they came, gentlemen wearing vests emblazoned in fleurs-de-lis, sport coats of gold sequin, harlequin prints. Ladies wore all manner of glitter—Melanie Greenspan donned a fascinator with blinking lights. The Chalmers and their guests were swathed in enough gold fabric to spike the metal’s price on the open market. Michael Nofal was positively Franz Josef, and new members Cynthia LaFave and Paul Rispoli went voodoo in scary long capes, he in a forbidding black top hat, and she a Venetian jester mask. They were nearly unrecognizable.
The threesome of trombone, trumpet, and saxophone entered the party tooting “When the Saints Go Marching In.” Two young ladies dressed in silver lamé and voluminous white feathers dispensed boas and beads in symbolic Mardi Gras colors—green for justice, purple for faith, and gold for power. Beads became part of the Mardi Gras ritual in the 19th century when social clubs known as krewes staged balls and parades to mark the end of Carnival. Krewe members on floats would throw trinkets to bystanders who today still beckon with the call “Throw me somethin’, Mister.” Originally crystal beads, even toys and food were thrown, but as post-parade cleanup grew too arduous, crystal was replaced by doubloons made of anodized aluminum, and eventually metal or plastic beads.
Chaîne revelers took their seats at tables set in Mardi Gras hues where a glass of Domaine Hamelin Chablis Beauroy Premier Cru 2022 awaited. The wine was well-balanced between fruit and minerality, a counterpoint to unctuous truffled Oyster Rockefeller. The amuse bouche launched what would be an extravagance of Louisiana specialties.
A first course of crawfish etouffee topped a crisp jambalaya cake, fragrant with smoke and spice in a refined sauce of tomato and red bell pepper, and was garnished with toasted flakes of Brussels sprout. Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes 2023 provided a pleasant chill and a soupçon of sweet – a fitting contrast to the heat in the dish.
The next course trolled Creole tradition with a fresh take on boudin noir, its earthy tang adorned not by the customary apple and mashed potatoes, but by a crunch of green apple and fennel tartare, turnip purée and friséee garnish. The distinctive flavors were a match for the juicy red darkness in 2021 Boissy & Delaygue “Lou Pontias” Côtes-du-Rhône. Pecan-crusted trout came next with creamy grits and maque choux relish. The Cajun mix of white and yellow corn, red bell pepper, celery, onions, and tomatoes partnered with a flinty wine from Spain with layers of tropical fruit, Eulogio Pomares “Zarate” Albariño, Rias Baixas, Val do Salnes 2023.
TheCreole holy trinity of diced onions, green bell peppers and celery proved a worthy aromatic base for beef cheek braised to fork tenderness, served au jus and accompanied on the plate by buttons of honeyed roasted carrot, potatoes, and cippolini onions. It was a majestic course paired with the exquisite Domaine LaFond Chateauneuf du Pape “Roc Epine” 2012. No Nola menu could close without two staples of the cuisine—beignets and Bananas Foster, the one sauced by the other in this case, its cream and rum enhanced by the nut-rich patina of Lustau Deluxe Capataz Andres Sherry, Jerez, Spain NV.
The French Quarter captured the heart of the far-away city of Albany, New York that evening, and it was a blast. Fat Saturday was simply phat.
Notes on the Cast: Bailli William Harris presented a framed Chaîne Certificate of Excellence to 677 Prime owner and Maître Restaurateur Jamie Ortiz, Executive Chef and Maître Rôtisseur Ken Kehn, Professionnel de la Table Sheila Burke, and the talented members of their service staff and culinary team for a flawless performance.
